I never really wrote about my trip last year, as I felt the artist’s urge to hold things close until I knew what I had.
And I didn’t want to write this post last week, as it felt like the whole October 7th anniversary belonged to many people, but not me.
That said, it’s a new week, and perhaps some form of Israel-Hamas ceasefire will hold.
(We can only hope.)
In the end, it seems my trip last year to Poland, a Jewish homeland for a Millennium, sparked a creative inquiry into how places change, once they’ve been ethnically cleansed.
It’s a touchy subject, obviously, as killing people and taking their land is an awful action that’s been repeated, endlessly, over human social history.
America, which I love, and New Mexico, where I live, are examples of places with histories of ethnic cleansing, and conquer by multiple empires.
But it’s all the more relevant now that Israel has been credibly accused of wanting to ethnically cleanse the Gaza Strip, to create a high-end, seaside resort.
The first photo I took in PolandLooking down on a nun along the river in KrakowMirka, in a square up the street from MOCAKThe Krakow skyline on a bright, sunny dayPro-Palestine graffiti on a sign outside the Krakow synagogue
Gaza has been reduced to rubble by the Israelis, who got their country because Poland was ethnically cleansed by the Nazis.
Much of Poland was also reduced to rubble, and eaten by two consecutive empires.
Now it’s thriving.
But also, something of an ethnic mono-culture since WWII, though the Ukrainians who were allowed in as recent war refugees have brought some diversity.
Regardless, though I’ve buried the lede here, I call the project “Go Back to Poland!” because of a provocative chant, at Columbia University in the spring of 2024, which went viral.
“Go Back to Poland!” the student screamed at Jews.
I read about it, and was astounded.
(Especially as it was suggested the protestors chanted it at all Jews, not just Israelis.)
It was meant as an insult, obviously.
Go Back to Poland! Get out of here!
I took it literally, as I was featured in an exhibition at MOCAK, and it made the perfect excuse to see what our 1000 year homeland was actually like?
The Krakow synagogue glowing in the afternoon sunSelf-portrait outside the Krakow Jewish cemetery, which was closedWarsaw skyline A Warsaw building being renovated A tram through central Warsaw
It’s fascinating, to be attracted to a country where my ancestors thrived, (as much as any Jews thrived,) because their numbers were so substantial by the time Hitler wiped them out.
More than 3 million Jews murdered in Poland. Half the total of the Holocaust.
All from a thoroughly conquered country, albeit one with at least a conflicted history with its growing minority. (Jews made up 10% of the country, by Hitler’s time.)
But attracted I am.
Poland is cool as shit, and I feel lucky to have been embraced enough last year that I’m going back, and am applying for a fellowship to support the project.
Next week, I’m off to Krakow and Warsaw, and will certainly be hitting the socials while I’m gone.
A right-wing, religious parade through the Old Warsaw Ghetto A reconstruction of a wooden, Jewish temple ceiling at the Polin Museum A photo of an animation of Medieval Poland, taken at the Polin Museum A digital mockup of a prospective, mixed-use development in GdańskAbraham, Isaac, Jacob and Joshua in a Polish cathedral
I’ve begun to interview people, to bring a reported element, and that’s been a cool new wrinkle as well.
I’m hoping to talk to Jewish-Americans who’ve been to modern Poland, (the last 10 years or so,) as well as Polish people.
We shall see where it all ends up, but I thought today was the day to share it.
See you next time.
Surveillance camera and spooky light in Gdańsk at night Digital rendering of a potential commercial development near Solidarity Square in GdańskShips on the Baltic Sea horizon An old man enjoying some autumn sun in Sopot The pietà in a Gdańsk cathedral
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